What Is Queer Food?

How We Served a Revolution

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Pub Date 3 Jun 2025 | Archive Date 31 May 2025

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Description

A celebrated food writer’s expansive, audacious excavation of the development of modern queer identity and food culture.

Food in America and Europe has long been shaped, twisted, and upended by queer creatives. Beloved food writer John Birdsall fills the gap between the past and present, channeling the twin forces of criticism and cultural history to propel readers into the kitchens, restaurants, swirling party-houses, and humming interior lives of James Baldwin, Alice B. Toklas, Truman Capote, Esther Eng, and others who left an indelible mark on the culinary world from the margins. Queer food is brunch quiche à la Craig Claiborne, Richard Olney’s ecstatic salade composée, and Rainbow Ice-Box Cake from Ernest Matthew Mickler’s White Trash Cooking. It’s the intention surrounding a meal, the circumstances behind it, the people gathered around the table.

With cinematic verve and prose that dazzles, What Is Queer Food? is a monumental work: a testament to food’s essential link to a modern queerness that reveals how, like fashion or tastes in music, food has become a language of LGBTQ+ identity.

About the Author: John Birdsall is the author of The Man Who Ate Too Much: The Life of James Beard and is the recipient of two James Beard Awards for food and culture writing.

A celebrated food writer’s expansive, audacious excavation of the development of modern queer identity and food culture.

Food in America and Europe has long been shaped, twisted, and upended by queer...


Advance Praise

"What Is Queer Food weaves the constellations of possibility underlying our cuisines in Birdsall's gorgeous, ebullient prose. Warm and generous, precise and exacting, this book is one of a kind, tied together by Birdsall's knowingness and generosity. An absolutely gorgeous work." -Bryan Washington, author of Family Meal

"Delectable, delightful, delovely! Birdsall's genius has given us a queer chronicle, full of both famous names and untold stories, revealing the subversive secret life of food in America. And done with all the charm and wit of MFK Fisher—a seemingly effortless feast of the senses." -Andrew Sean Greer, Pulitzer Prize winning author of Less and Less Is Lost

"John Birdsall’s What Is Queer Food is a staggering, sweeping work full of wit and bite. The book defies category: it’s a history and a philosophical argument, a chain of interconnected stories told in Birdsall’s unmistakable voice, sexy and joyous and angry and thrumming with life—it casts a bright light on an essential, under-recognized dimension of American gastronomic history." -Helen Rosner

"John Birdsall masterfully unveils the hidden stories of influential figures who have shaped American cuisine—individuals whose queer identities often remain unrecognized. With compassion and insight, he brings their journeys to life, celebrating their strengths while thoughtfully examining their complexities and humanity. Walk in their footsteps and be captivated by their stories." -Nik Sharma, author of The Flavor Equation and Veg-Table

"Poetically tracing the fascinating, elusive history of queer people and food, John Birdsall, author and former chef, serves us a scrumptious buffet of queer bakers, chefs, cookbook writers, eaters, foods, food parties, food writers, restaurant owners and reviewers, and the wait persons who carry it to us—in a nutshell everything and everyone from soup to nuts. Chewing the fat in the first person, Birdsall serves us a repast for thought. What is Queer Food? is a feast to remember! (Full disclosure: I make a quick walk-on as the young boy who asked the very butch restaurant owner, Esther Eng, for a 'dikery.' I meant a 'daiquiri')." -Jonathan Ned Katz, author of The Daring Life and Dangerous Times of Eve Adams

"Not only is this an important decree of Queer visibility in food history, excavating and restoring a narrative long buried and obstructed, it is also a miracle of well written prose and wildly entertaining. I couldn’t help but read large portions of this book out loud to give the masterful storytelling a voice and ring loud. John Birdsall continues to establish himself as one of my most anticipated writers." -Lisa Donovan, author of Our Lady of Perpetual Hunger

"What Is Queer Food weaves the constellations of possibility underlying our cuisines in Birdsall's gorgeous, ebullient prose. Warm and generous, precise and exacting, this book is one of a kind, tied...


Available Editions

EDITION Hardcover
ISBN 9781324073796
PRICE US$29.99 (USD)
PAGES 256

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